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2015年12月18日 星期五

The Golden Roof

14th August, 2015 Summer

It was his big love to bring me here. Not focusing much on Spanish cuisine, I had actually heard nothing about this restaurant, until it became my birthday lunch place.

Located at one level above Isono from the same restaurant group, Vasco is a Spanish (with a little French fusion) fine-dining place by Drawing Concepts.

The reception shares the same as Isono, and servers will guide you through stairs to eventually a rooftop with a greenhouse-like setting, and guests are the one to be pampered at this place.

This natural and clean environment instantly transformed into a golden interior design with dark wooden floorings and antique furniture when we entered. We were brought to a sofa seat which was quite spacious, at least not locating us too close to the adjacent table.

Lunch menu could be ordered in 2, 3 or 4 courses ($349, $389 and $558 respectively, plus 10% SC)
**Good to have a glance at the lunch menu online as they changed the dishes every month*.
 Sometimes you may get yourself indulged further by adding extra black truffle at $99 supplement, or a selection of cheese as a dessert at $49 supplement.

Vasco did have a very strong gastronomic sense in terms of the whole menu design. The ingredients could be so interestingly and creatively paired up, which you could never aware that their flavor profiles could that intriguingly match together. You would never be disappointed if you like something different.

Hors d'Oeuvres (5/5): What a nice start to have them kick start our tasting journey.

i)Jumbo green olive stuffed with Campari cream and olive caviar
I am a big fan of green olives but it’s always hard to find big sized green olive in HK, only chance you could find is in GREAT or those that have been prepacked in jars.

The olive burst with a lot of juices and it went so well with the olive caviar which smoothened the mouthfeel. I couldn’t taste much of Campari though but I believe it did contributed to this juiciness somehow.

ii)Fish cracker with bell pepper sauce
A soso finger food but the cracker was crispy enough.

iii)Pickle with salmon roe
Salmon roe was fresh to go with sweet pickles! Crunchy enough with sweet-and-sour.

iv)Curry infused caramelized pistachio
Manager highlighted this to us and explained that the nuts are intentionally packed in this small plastic bag for preventing from losing its special curry infused aroma. The bouquet was actually intense in the mouth with some caramelized flavors.


Amuse bouche (4/5): King Crab Meat, bell pepper, Black garlic ice cream and dried black garlic crunches

It was our very first time to try the black garlic ice cream! Interestingly sour at first and with some toasted bread flavor, the black garlic did paired well with the juicy crab meat.






Pain (5/5):

Very rarely would a fine-dining restaurant served only a single kind of bread. And I think Vasco did because they wanted to put their emphasis on their premium olive oil and butter.

Their homemade sourdough however was also deliciously right on the mark. Right when you tore a piece out, the steam came all over! It was really really a hot enough bread which you wouldn’t get it cold even when you finished.

Butter from Bordier: (From the left) Beetroot, Spinach, Tomato, Mushroom and Original salted
Girls would always be impressed with colorful dish! I particularly love the tomato and mushroom flavor as their characteristic flavor were more pronounced and intense. The original salted butter was amazing too, it was really silky and soft when spreading at your hot sourdough.

Olive oil Brand (Origin): Flavor like 
(From the left)
Oro Bailen (Spain): Green banana;
Mas Auró (Spain): Artichoke;
Santa Oliva (Spain):Almond;
Olivares del Derramador (Spain); Ripe tomato;
Terre Bormane Citrino (Italy): 30% Lemon Juice

Servers actually asked about our preference but we finally decided to have all five to try! All 5 olive oils did share one same attribute , they were all very complex in flavors yet so rich and elegant in bouquet.

I fell in love with Oro Bailen and Citrino. Both of them were of very strong flavor. Oro Bailen gave really grassy green banana taste; While the Citrino provided my first ever experience in tasting sour citrus olive oil. They were all so fresh.


Amuse bouche: Croissant with Iberico ham (4/5)

The manager recommended so much to us that this croissant must be consumed hot. We got a bite and that enduringly umami smell of fatty ham exploded in our mouth. Croissant itself was soft, moist but with crispy layers. Fantastic.


Asparagus curd with Mediterranean prawns, crunchy sweetcorn and a touch of spice (5/5)

Have you tried Mediterranean sashimi? This was my very first time to try red prawn sashimi. The plate decoration was really enchanting and the prawns were like swimming in a special “white ocean” – the Asparagus curd. The prawn was incredibly sweet and fresh, I could say this has been the best prawn sashimi (if not counting Scampi in AUS) I ever tried. Topped with the asparagus curd, the sweetness between vegetable and fish just doubled together so harmoniously. A very nice tickle to appetite!


Fregola risotto style with sea urchin, mussels and crustacean mayonnaise (3.5/5)

Fregola is a dot shaped pasta very common in North Africa, getting this special pasta cooked like risotto seemed interesting to us. The Fregola was slightly larger in size than we expected and was wrapped with reddish orange crustacean sauce. Mussels were small in size but juicy. To me, cooking sea urchin could hardly give a very pronounced flavor as it is to be eaten fresh. This dish could not get over of this barrier because additionally the crustacean sauce was so muscular to cover other ingredients. It was a bit not easy to finish the dish.

Fresh strawberries with shiso sorbet and yoghurt sponge (5/5)

I was very amazed by Vasco’s dessert creations with their inspiring and innovative ingredients. My another first trial to shiso sorbet also happened in Vasco. The sorbet gave a sense of sweetness like mint gum but at the same time brought forward the crispiness of Shiso. No doubt to be enjoyed in summer together with fresh strawberries and the fluffy yoghurt sponge. Very clean and refreshing to my palate indeed! 

Petit-Four: Hazelnut powder candy, caramel chocolate and Financier (4/5)

Out stomach were already so filled up when we finished the 3 courses (and all amuse bouche and breads). However, the petit four was just so beautiful that you could never resist it.

I was very much impressed with the hazelnut powder candy (wrapped in candy paper) as it was surprisingly creamy and infused with Nutella-like aroma which recalled so much my childhood memories.

Caramel chocolate was also smooth with moderate sweetness, while financier was a bit dry but eggy enough.


The climax of the day arrived when server brought me a birthday card with my name written; and an instant camera to capture this sweet moment. So thankful that my boy brought me here and arranged this little surprise.

Finally for Tea/Coffee, just knew that Vasco has a mixed Chamomile and Lavender tea. That was super super relaxing and lay-back when having a zip after this comprehensive lunch. Nice one :>

Service at Vasco was professional. Servers and Managers all around you are so humble and eager to help as always; they are also very experienced about the whole menu. I did enjoy the spacious setting in Vasco. There could actually be rooms for more tables but instead they make use of elegant furniture (and many are nice sofa) to setup each corner for best experience.

Just one thing that caused slight nuisance was the bumping noise whenever people walked on the wooden floor. Not sure but it was so obvious that I could always feel people coming back and forth.


To mention about “fine-dining”, I just keep one ruler to all: From the start to the very end, every served items should show passion. And I am so much impressed with this lunch because Vasco handles every detail carefully, from finger foods to butter; and from the furniture they used for dining and to the utensils they have prepared for you in washroom.

P.S. When browsing the webpage of Drawing Concepts, just recognized that one of the managers here was from my favorite restaurant in the past – Messina. Hope to meet him again in my next visit. :>


Vasco Spanish Fine Dining
中環鴨巴甸街35號PMQ元創方 Hollywood 7樓H701-H708號舖
Tel: 2156 0888
星期一至六: 12:00-15:00, 19:00-00:00; 星期日休息
www.vasco.com.hk

2015年11月5日 星期四

The Epure Kitchen Journey

5th May, 2015 Spring

Sweet and thankful that my sister had finally put on her wedding gown, under this whole year from engagement to organizing the whole wedding ceremony, my family decided to round this important moment up with an elegant finish (believe it was actually a kick-off of this newlywed couple's brand new page) by joining Epure again for a decent dinner. 

In contrast with the shiny and forestry atmosphere in the afternoon, Epure turned to be a lot more romantic and elegant with its dimmer environment this evening. Golden linings along the interior walls, doors, and all utensils shone all over to adorn this beautiful dining night. 



To start off this evening, we ordered the 6-course "His" tasting menu, which comprised very appetizing oyster, foie gras, green asparagus which was on season, wagyu (with supplement $200), cheese and dessert.



Finger food (5/5): (From left: Comte cheese ball, Artichoke tart, foie gras ball with cherry glacing) 
-This very HOT comte cheese ball had its cheesy heart wonderfully melting! (It's like the Pizza Hut ad which you could pull the cheese string out!) The strong flavor of Comte was enhanced after deep-fried.  
-The foie gras ball made me think of another haute restaurant's signature lollipop. Nevertheless, it was also perfectly executed, with slightly sour cherry glacing on top and the umami foie gras filling inside. A combination that could never fail.
-Artichoke tart was refreshing enough to be stood in the middle of the other two and cleaned our palate.



Amuse Bouche (3.5/5): Pan seared tuna, topped with basil (green), olive (brown), lemon (yellow) and chilli sauce (red). 

The tuna was medium-seared with beautiful pink flesh. These 4 sauces were interesting, each paired with tuna to give its own typical character. But overall it would say it's creatively presented, rather than outstanding in taste.



Pain (4/5): Baguette, Croissant, Mustard seed bread, Black olive bread, Black pepper and cheese bread, soft milk bread
*With orange chilli butter and unsalted butter 

Have been writing about pain de Epure in my last review but this time they slightly earned their marks. The new flavor black peppers and cheese bread was ultimately impressive, imagine cheesy savory flavor lingered with exciting black peppers dancing on your palate. 
This piquant orange chilli butter was only spicy in nose and a bit salted only. It did complement all breads very well. 



Huitres de Bourcefranc(5/5): Special French Oyster, cucumber, melon & spicy crunchy peanuts

The dish setting was enchanting to kick a nice start of the night. The delicate french fresh oysters was carefully wrapped with a thin transparent greenish cucumber jelly and an beautiful orange french melon sorbet came along to garnish this hearty cradle. A nice blow of cooling dry ice vapor ran out over the dish once the servers poured water to the bottom of the dish. (The dry ice effect is always adorable, even for a milk tea in HK Tai Hing).

The oyster was remarkably crispy and fresh. I always agree that tasting freshly shucked oysters alone could retrieve its biggest taste. But out of our expectation this time, the honey sweetness of melon sorbet accented the oyster’s tang of ocean and went along so harmoniously with all ingredients. Rarely could an oyster dish offered such a clean finish.   



Chateau Haut-Brion 1993 (4/5): 

Daddy brought us one of his prestigious wines to Epure for our celebration tonight (as Epure has great discount on corkage: Purchased 1 in-house wine and receive 1 self-brought in full bottle corkage free). Again, not a big fan of reds, but found this wine rather intriguing. Garnet in color, a medium+ leather and blackberry aroma and hints of black peppered meat. On palate, it was a very elegant and full bodied wine with obvious coffee and smoky wood, medium+ alcohol. The black fruit revealed after it had been breathed along the dinner.



Le Foie Gras de Canard (4/5): Seared duck foie gras, poached rhubarb, Tonka beans sauce

Have been in love with Epure’s foie gras since my last visit and I did expect something new (or outstanding) this time. The foie gras was again thick and juicy enough, it just smoothly melted on your palate luxuriously. Rhubarb, with its natural tart flavor, has been used this time to offset the greasiness of foie gras. Impressed with the use of tonka bean nuts as sauce as it burst a wonderful nutty, vanilla-like and coffee aroma which exceptionally complemented the foie gras. A very special combination indeed.



L'asperge de Jerome Galis (3/5): Warm Jerome Galis green asparagus & mousseline sauce

Attendant suggested that Asparagus was just seasonal and I believed she was right. Keeping the texture crispy, and smooth without any residue, the flesh was also sweet and juicy. However, the mayo foam with lemon was a tad too oily, and seems it walked alone itself. It might be my prejudice that vegis should always be kept less oil and healthy when preparing them.



Le Bauf Japonais (supplement $200) (3.5/5):  Seared Kagoshima Wagyu striploin, pointed cabbage, cider jus

Before serving wagyu, a strawberry sorbet was served to clean the palate. Actually we had been more than 70% fed up when this course was approaching. This was meant to be the main course of the night but seems it had slightly pulled the climax down.

The potato soufflé was cute and airy, but again seems it did not participate much in this dish. Wagyu slice (not at generous portion) was at medium and its interior was pinkish, however it didn’t show up adequately with luscious greasiness nor meatiness. Cider jus at the side was a tad too sour in my opinion.


Trust me, desserts from Epure could never disappoint anyone, and we even got their in-house sauternes collection: Chateau Doisy Daene Sauternes 2004 (4.5/5)

A golden yellow hue sprinkling in the glass, you could feel its honey and apricot bouquet. The palate demonstrated even more strongly, with caramel, honey, peach jello, pear and dried apricot dancing all along. Just that the acidity could be more pronounced for a perfect balance.



Quelques Fromages de Saison (4/5): Selection of matured cheese by Xavier, from Toulouse, France 
(Starting from 12:00) Ossau, St. Maure, Tomme de Soulor, Cabrioulet, Roquefort

The cheese were very new to me, seems they were not easy to find at supermarkets except St. Maure and Roquefort. I especially love St. Maure, (I rarely like goat cheese) and Tomme de Soulor. Both was mediumly strong in character and revealed intense milky flavors. 



Le citron de Menton (4/5): Light lemon mousse, marinated pineapple, faisselle sorbet

I did appreciate Epure that they endeavored to exhibit perfect artpieces to you, you could never be pampered less from any aspects. This dessert was a good example which they made several layers of ingredients in this really tiny cup, pineapple compote and white choco coated rice crunches at the bottom and on top fresh and tangy lemon mousse with a zest of lime peel. 





A la carte - Le Souffle de Grand Marnier (Epure's signature dessert) (5.5/5)!

We picked our favorite souffle in Mandarin flavor out from the a la carte menu because of the highly acclaimed dessert reputation at Epure. The souffle was a pretty large one and the surface was beautifully smooth and flat. Spooned a mouthful out, you could see the very small bubbles formed a fluffy yet concrete souffle, and it went very smoothly, lightly like wind but at the same time reflected deep citrus flavor. Every single part of the souffle was densely packed, without any bigger holes or hollows you could find. This was absolutely the best souffle I have ever meet. Complementing with the Mandarin sorbet at the side brought out the full citrus bouquet. Truly well executed dish. 

Petit Fours (4.5/5): 

By the time we finished whole menu,  we were super full (and a bit drunk actually) to enjoy the Petit Fours. Nevertheless, the quality of these little sweets were still outstanding  (Attendants even asked us to try even a tiny bit as they just recommended so much on the mango tart and truffle macaron). 




For a wonderful restaurant like Epure, it would be definitely regretful if you missed the chance of visualizing this esteemed secret kitchen. Attendants invited us for a little "tour guide" to the cooking area and I was more than pleased to have this fascinating opportunity! The working environment in Epure was really really decent and hygenic as you could see, and I was really thrilled to have a little chat with Chef Nicolas and Chef Matthieu that night to know more about the other side of this pretty place...:'> 


*Corkage: For 1 bottle of wine purchased in house, they will waive the corkage of 1 BYOB :)
That's why we were so much eager to open our Haut-Brion here :) 

Epure
尖沙咀廣東道17號海洋中心4樓403號舖
Tel: 3185 8338
星期一至日: 12:00-14:30, 18:00-22:00
http:///www.epure.hk