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2015年2月23日 星期一

Epure


Having been a Dalloyau fans ever since it has launched in HK, I had always been glancing through and imagining what’s actually behind its golden gate to its fine dining side Epure.

Couldn’t believe it was just a decision right in the morning that daddy would be bringing sis and me to Epure.
And right when I stood in front of this golden gate, I could exactly feel how exciting Charlie was when he opened his eyes to his long-awaited chocolate factory. 


The journey finally started. We were arranged to have window seats (even it was a last-min booking at 11am that day). Though Epure is at G/F, the bar environment outside was actually cozy enough. It would be nice if a sunny day came through. 

Seatings at Epure were spacious and private in between tables. I liked the greenish design and sofas all around which made the environment a lot more enjoyable.


Epure offers a tasting menu (4 course*starter, soup, main, dessert/cheese - $598) and a self-selection of weekday lunch menu (2 course - $398, 3 course -$498, 4-course - $598 *Note: starter, main, cheese, dessert). Without any hesitation, I chose the tasting menu, with duck foie gras as starter, chestnut soup with black truffle slices, lobster as main and cheese assortment as final.


Pain (3/5)
5 selections of breads were available at Epure. Soso breads but the herb butter was yum.


Eager to look at the wine list of Epure, selections were just enough for French countries. Fans of wines from other countries might be slightly looking for more. 

Apertif: Saracco Moscato D’Asti 2013 ($500/bottle) (4.5/5)

Having a very nice mood that day, we in four have ordered a bottle of Moscato D’Asti. 
Beautiful fluffy bubbles unlimitedly rose from bottom to shape a small cordon on top, the moscato d'asti was as expected utimately refreshing. Pear and white peach flavor came forward and a slight touch of fresh lime was just right to raise the acidity. A light and straight forward wine most suitable for apertif.


Amuse bouche (4.5/5)


Citrus jelly and apple puree tart: Both were refreshing.
Mini ham croissant: Size was just enough and was buttery and crispy.
Truffle creamy foam:  Absolutely gorgeous taste of truffle and creaminess, very lovely

*Nice Service: One of the servers proactively asked us to enjoy it before the foam just all sank down (as we had been chatting for long)


Entree: Seared Duck Foie Gras, Cabbage puree and Elderberry vinigarette (6/5!!!)

The duck foie gras really SURPRISED us! This very thickly cut foie gras (around 4cm i guess) had been firstly poached before searing, so that the inner flesh was still so soft, smooth and melting-in-mouth, but maintained solid (rather than runny) in texture (See the cross section). I would rather describe it as a jelly dancing on the dish. 

The crispy outer layer and the cabbage puree complemented the overall mouthfeel perfectly. I particularly loved pairing the foie gras with vinigarette for a cleaner version. 
Texture wins and it dominates my no.1 foie gras ranking.



Soupe: Chestnut & fennel velvety soup, crunchy wheat berries & winter black truffle (4.5/5)

The soup base was silky and quite watery and has a lighter taste on its own. It actually didn't taste like chestnut, but rather a mushroom flavor? 

When mixing with fennel puree, the soup became a lot more strongly flavored by the fennel and was garnished with a slightly grassy mouth feel. With generous amount of winter truffle slices, the divine aroma swirled around my palate and gave additional crunchiness.  


Plat Principal: Poached Lobster, Amandine Mousseline, Baby Leeks, Comte Cheese & Jura Yellow Wine Jus (4/5)

The yellow wine sauce was strongly umami but with a hint of sweetness. It combined with the tender lobster perfectly through a very flavorful chemical reaction, leaving it a sweet and meaty aftertaste. I also loved the little peels of comte on the dish which mixed all ingredients harmoniously together.


Fromage by Xavier (4/5)

Having recalled the media interviews about Epure on its unique cheese collection, without doubt I ordered the cheese selections as my dessert. Cheeses from Epure could disappoint no one. All 5 selected cheeses were ripe enough to be served and were just with enough characters. 

I especially loved the St. Felicien at the 12am position which had a runny texture and deep strong mellow taste. The goat cheese Gour Noir was less strong but its creamy and supple texture just stole my heart away. If to pinpoint, I would suggest to serve with more dried fruits and honey for pairing these lovely cheeses.


(Dessert: from sister)
My sister ordered a blood orange dessert instead and was unexpectedly large portioned and beautiful! Tarty flavors refresh every taste buds from the powerful dishes. Textures were comprehensive with the use of chips, fruit pulps, sorbet, mousse, orange peels and sauce. Very nice dessert with effort seen.


Wine: Fritz Haag 2012 Brauneberger Juffer Sonneuhr Riesling Auslese (3.5/5)
Craving for a dessert wine to accomplish this lunch with a wonderful finish, daddy finally ordered an extra wine in glass.

German Riesling is always girls’ favorite. This Auslese style was at medium sweetness, soft and light, with a bit of honey and yellow peach in flavor. Quite balanced with the adequate level of acidity, but I would always opt for sweeter ones. Very nice with my sister’s dessert and to some extent could also pair my loved St. Felicien and the blue cheese.

 *Nice Service: Another server proactively provided us one of our preferred dessert wines to taste before ordering.  


Petit Four (4.5/5)
The petit four were also elegantly presented like a mini high tea. The lemon marshmallow was zesty like a real bite of lemon juice. The truffle macaron was very stunning and stood out from the crowd. The truffle aromma blended so well with the smooth black chocolate filling. Chestnut puff was soso but again not too sweet. Finally I had the Japanese Lime tea as a decent and clean ending. 



Service (5/5!)
Their service is absolutely professional; Servers were all very experienced and knowledgeable, very eager to share and interact with us on the food and wine tasting, very attentive to details that we might want (or forget), very smart on explaining the ingredients used, cheese varieties and wine knowledge.


This first Epure experience was truly all rounded at all aspects. I actually found truffle dishes by Epure (the milky foam, chestnut soup and truffle macaron) particularly outstanding. Would definitely come back for sure.  

*Corkage: For 1 bottle of wine purchased in house, they will waive the corkage of 1 BYOB :)


Epure
尖沙咀廣東道17號海洋中心4樓403號舖
Tel: 3185 8338
星期一至日: 12:00-14:30, 18:00-22:00
http:///www.epure.hk 

2014年12月18日 星期四

A Well Seasoned Wine Pairing Dinner

Credits to my company for an annual dinner that there could be such a wonderful eye-opening (and mouth-widening as well :p) experience at the Seasons. Well reported on food news everywhere about Mr. Elzer, no matter in the aspect of his background at Joel Robuchon, his creative inspirations or his previously launched tea set in wooden box. But despite these compliments for this restaurant, very honestly I have to permit that Seasons is really a place where I can get myself indulged with really nice ingredients. If to pinpoint, I would say the dessert is not as pampering as I expect.

 

 
It was around 6:30pm when we arrived the place. The outdoor was nice with wooden decorations and some plants alongside.
Separating the interior restaurant and the outside is the full height glass partition, it was with quite a spacious settings in between tables for the area near the entrance. While passing through the aisle will be another dining area with more chic but close packing seating. And we were arranged to sit at the spacious area under the romantic warm dim lights. 

 

 


Before we order, it was first served with bread baskets. A good assortments of breads which included brioche, chips, small baguette and spiced bread. Breads were nicely hot enough! Both salted and plain butter were available. Best pick would definitely be the spiced bread, which had rosemary, parsley on top and smelled really good.  Both salted and unsalted butter were available.

 
We in table of 8 decided to have Special Tasting Menu by Chef Elzer at 6-course (HK$1,188+10%). Thanks again for the wonderful lists of self-selected wine pairing by my boss that night, with a start of Champagne.

 

1st Wine: Jacques Picard Selection (Brut)
Light yellow in color. Very fine, soft and irrepressibly rising of bubbles from the bottom to make a little cute floating cordon. Very fresh lemon and unripe pineapple in nose. I actually tasted lemon cello and lime at first and then slight limestone at the back. A very agile champagne.

 

 
1.       Appetizer: King Alaska Crab in 2 ways with avocado (8/10)
The first dish brought us an ultimate freshness with the succulent King Alaska Crab. Was recommended to start from the bottom first. The avocado dressing complemented very well with plain shucked crab meat, and the top ginger mayo crab salad was impressive, the hint of ginger actually bumped back some freshness to the umami mouthfeel.
Wine pairing: Pairing clean seafood with Champagne normally could never disappoint anyone.

 

 
2nd Wine: Domaine Tollot-Beaut Chorey-les-Beaune 2009
Use of Pinot Noir at the region Chorey-Les-Beaune. Deep ruby red in color, medium+ nose with blackberries and herb tea. Medium- tannin, medium acidity with meaty and herb tea flavor again, hidden with a very slight red fruit notes at the end.
After breathing for an hour, a distinguishable note of cranberry and cherry was revealed.
*It is actually my very first time to use a Burgundy glass for wine…not a fan of reds but amazed with its wide big bowl and the wonderful fruity aromas flowing along.

 



 

 
2.       Soup: Beetroot soup with yoghurt (4/10)
The soup had beef consommé in base and a considerable amount of beetroot. Attendant recommended to mix the yoghurt together with the soup for more creamier texture. However, unexpectedly the yoghurt simply couldn’t melt (even I smashed it so hard…in a polite way). The soup was too heavily spiced with the black pepper (I guess) and salty as well. It was too just too hard to finish...my throat was really burning. Hopefully some beetroot and veggie dices were there to soothe my palate a bit.

 

 
3rd Wine: Cordero Di Montezemolo Barolo Monfalletto 2009 (Best Pick of the night)
Use of Nebbiolo from Monfalletto state. Garnet in color with noticeable amount of legs. Medium- nose with sweet blends of cranberry and strawberry jelly. In palate, medium- acidity, soft tannin with black fruits. After breathing, the caramel aroma immediately stand out in nose and even more outstanding blackberry flavors. A very elegant wine.

 

 
3.       Seared Hokkaido Scallop with lemon peel herbal butter (6/10)
Hokkaido Scallop was as usual sweet and with chewy texture, very toothsome and with reasonable thickness; herbal butter was always the best garnish for scallop.
The garlic potato foam at the side added a slight saltiness to the scallop, which was nice too. Though tomato and eggplant at the bottom of the scallop seem not to be on the same picture with other ingredients.

 

 
4th Wine:  Chateau Pibran Pauillac 2009
A blend of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon in this wine. Deep ruby color, black fruits in nose and sense of alcohol in nose. Medium+ tannin and acidity, high alcohol, lingering smoky wood, vanilla and chestnut flavor with lively unripe blackberries. A full bodied and complex wine.

 

 
4.       Seared Duck Foie Gras (8/10)
Very thick in size and is seared beautifully with crisp caramelized outer skin, wrapping the smooth, turgid interior. Lovely to enjoy it with the slightly sweet pear puree and fried apricot.
Nice dish.
Wine Pairing: Chateau Pibran was too strong for foie gras. I would always opt for a dessert wine with foie gras.

 

 
5th Wine:  Cullen Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2012
Not of much impression towards as I was already very full that time

 

 
5.       Traditional Pigeon Pie (8.5/10)
Having the previous dishes well going, this main dish gave this dinner experience a very final nice kick which pushed the night to climax. This traditional pigeon pie stuffed with wonderful amounts of pigeon meat and foie gras. Mushrooms and pine nuts which filled up the rest of the space ornamented with just right amount of chewiness to the pie, giving a very satisfying mouthfeel.
Was deeply impressed with the addition of Apricot because its slight sourness balanced the overall strong gravy taste. Lovely sweet gravy sauce on the dish which made the game pie very juicy and perfect.
Found this paired exemptionally well with the Monfalletto and Pauillac wine.

 

 
6.       White Chocolate Mousse with Earl Grey Ice Cream (3/10)
It was actually quite a big slip to have this dessert served after such a fascinating main course. The chocolate mousse prettily failed. Texture went very rough with the grains of undissolved gelatin embedded. Earl Grey ice-cream was so-so in taste with a very week hint of bergamot. But sweetness overall was adequate.  

 

 
In terms of service the whole night, attendants were all smart and professional. If more warm smiles and greetings could happen that would be sweet.
You wont be disappointed about Season's art on food :)

 
Seasons by Olivier Elzer
銅鑼灣恩平道2-38號利園二期三樓308號舖
2505 6228
星期一至日: 12:00-14:30, 18:00-22:30
http://www.seasonsbyolivier.com/