2015年2月25日 星期三

值得一試 - 來自Tony Wong的Cafe

來到這兩年的美食熱潮 走高檔甜品的餐廳開得此起彼落 
現在想在旺角找間甜點店 (連鎖式不計) 
除了傳統中式港式糖水 可以說近八成的甜品價格都已經大大調高 $40多元的消費走不掉
其實某程度上欣賞在這個風氣中的出品 從Creativity, Gimmick, Plate Decoration, Presentation 等等都有著十分多元化的改變
不過 亦在這個稍微良莠不齊的時候 我們這些消費者都需要衡量更多
一碟盛為$60-70的甜品 值不值得見仁見智

今晚到過於新世紀廣場新開(一陣子) 的Smile Cafe
不得不佩服Tony Wong 監控的一系列出品 雖然對於Tony Wong的Patisserie總有所保留
但這位甜點大師的確為現時的潮流訂了新標準



有別於其他Smile Yogurt 分店 
Smile Cafe除了有一向供應的Froyo 及果凍甜品杯系列外, 櫃台還有件裝的Chiffon  Cakes及少量Patisserie,  
新menu 則有十多款Signature Desserts, 更首次有Salad, Sandwich 及Mains 可供選擇, 來一個自製Casual 版 3-Course Lunch/Dinner 其實很不錯 

店內靠左有大約三十個位子, 環境Casual, 可以先落單付款, Foods on plate 會由店員親自奉上, 
在沒有收加一的情況下,  有這樣潔淨簡單的環境及半自助式服務值得一讚








1. 自選Yogurt ( Granola, 桂花果凍, 綠茶糯米糍, 熱情果香蕉醬, Manuka Honey) 4/5
  
每次來到Smile 總是愛和姐妹一起自選喜歡的Toppings 每選滿3個還送1款醬料
份量易控制之如 每款都是自己最愛吃的 所以感覺上抵吃好多
最愛Smile的熱情果香蕉醬 濃郁的熱情果酸香能平衡香蕉的甜
軟糯的果肉拼着甜酸的冰凍Froyo  口感實在豐富
而香蕉醬總是會放近杯底 所以剛好每次吃到有點膩的時候 可以解膩!



2. 沖繩黑糖薑疏乎厘伴雪糕 (5/5) 
姐姐一向愛吃疏乎厘 喜歡那種像風一樣輕盈的口感 甜而不膩
其實製作疏乎厘的材料較簡單
所以略嫌$68的訂價太高
不過吃完才發覺原來Smile版本的疏乎厘
其實是相比起坊間很多店都來得非常實在
口感依然輕盈 但整個疏乎厘的結構很挺身
吃到中層的位置完全沒有大空洞 更不會中途倒下 就是很綿密的感覺
黑糖的味道突出 配上薑味濃郁的軟雪糕 一熱一冷好正
旁邊還有少許咖啡醬 本身我不飲咖啡 但加少許到疏乎厘上 就非常能夠突出黑糖的香甜
Really Amazing!



3. Sweet Heart (紅酒燴梨, Sablé, 草莓雪芭, 雲尼拿雪糕, 芒果汁裝飾) (4/5) 
唯一off menu的新品 見到有最愛的燴梨就忍不住点了!
一嘗兩款雪糕就知道用料並哈根或moven
雲云拿雪糕呈奶黃色 口感軟滑 
雲尼拿味道十分濃香 神奇地還有少少奶皇香 十分美味
草莓雪芭味道較酸 質地有黏稠 但莓香十足
中間一層sable 非常鬆脆!
燴梨則帶有頗濃烈的紅酒味 小朋友要注意!
一次過將幾層混合同吃味道頗為balanced 但個人覺得甜度不夠 若加上旁邊的芒果汁能稍為平衡酸味



相比起其他patisserie 及果凍杯 新增的甜品系列的確令人驚喜 期待再試這裡的french apple tart!


Smile Cafe
旺角太子道西193號新世紀廣場地下M39號舖
Tel: 2157 0332
http://www.smile-yogurt.com/en_contact.php

2015年2月23日 星期一

Epure


Having been a Dalloyau fans ever since it has launched in HK, I had always been glancing through and imagining what’s actually behind its golden gate to its fine dining side Epure.

Couldn’t believe it was just a decision right in the morning that daddy would be bringing sis and me to Epure.
And right when I stood in front of this golden gate, I could exactly feel how exciting Charlie was when he opened his eyes to his long-awaited chocolate factory. 


The journey finally started. We were arranged to have window seats (even it was a last-min booking at 11am that day). Though Epure is at G/F, the bar environment outside was actually cozy enough. It would be nice if a sunny day came through. 

Seatings at Epure were spacious and private in between tables. I liked the greenish design and sofas all around which made the environment a lot more enjoyable.


Epure offers a tasting menu (4 course*starter, soup, main, dessert/cheese - $598) and a self-selection of weekday lunch menu (2 course - $398, 3 course -$498, 4-course - $598 *Note: starter, main, cheese, dessert). Without any hesitation, I chose the tasting menu, with duck foie gras as starter, chestnut soup with black truffle slices, lobster as main and cheese assortment as final.


Pain (3/5)
5 selections of breads were available at Epure. Soso breads but the herb butter was yum.


Eager to look at the wine list of Epure, selections were just enough for French countries. Fans of wines from other countries might be slightly looking for more. 

Apertif: Saracco Moscato D’Asti 2013 ($500/bottle) (4.5/5)

Having a very nice mood that day, we in four have ordered a bottle of Moscato D’Asti. 
Beautiful fluffy bubbles unlimitedly rose from bottom to shape a small cordon on top, the moscato d'asti was as expected utimately refreshing. Pear and white peach flavor came forward and a slight touch of fresh lime was just right to raise the acidity. A light and straight forward wine most suitable for apertif.


Amuse bouche (4.5/5)


Citrus jelly and apple puree tart: Both were refreshing.
Mini ham croissant: Size was just enough and was buttery and crispy.
Truffle creamy foam:  Absolutely gorgeous taste of truffle and creaminess, very lovely

*Nice Service: One of the servers proactively asked us to enjoy it before the foam just all sank down (as we had been chatting for long)


Entree: Seared Duck Foie Gras, Cabbage puree and Elderberry vinigarette (6/5!!!)

The duck foie gras really SURPRISED us! This very thickly cut foie gras (around 4cm i guess) had been firstly poached before searing, so that the inner flesh was still so soft, smooth and melting-in-mouth, but maintained solid (rather than runny) in texture (See the cross section). I would rather describe it as a jelly dancing on the dish. 

The crispy outer layer and the cabbage puree complemented the overall mouthfeel perfectly. I particularly loved pairing the foie gras with vinigarette for a cleaner version. 
Texture wins and it dominates my no.1 foie gras ranking.



Soupe: Chestnut & fennel velvety soup, crunchy wheat berries & winter black truffle (4.5/5)

The soup base was silky and quite watery and has a lighter taste on its own. It actually didn't taste like chestnut, but rather a mushroom flavor? 

When mixing with fennel puree, the soup became a lot more strongly flavored by the fennel and was garnished with a slightly grassy mouth feel. With generous amount of winter truffle slices, the divine aroma swirled around my palate and gave additional crunchiness.  


Plat Principal: Poached Lobster, Amandine Mousseline, Baby Leeks, Comte Cheese & Jura Yellow Wine Jus (4/5)

The yellow wine sauce was strongly umami but with a hint of sweetness. It combined with the tender lobster perfectly through a very flavorful chemical reaction, leaving it a sweet and meaty aftertaste. I also loved the little peels of comte on the dish which mixed all ingredients harmoniously together.


Fromage by Xavier (4/5)

Having recalled the media interviews about Epure on its unique cheese collection, without doubt I ordered the cheese selections as my dessert. Cheeses from Epure could disappoint no one. All 5 selected cheeses were ripe enough to be served and were just with enough characters. 

I especially loved the St. Felicien at the 12am position which had a runny texture and deep strong mellow taste. The goat cheese Gour Noir was less strong but its creamy and supple texture just stole my heart away. If to pinpoint, I would suggest to serve with more dried fruits and honey for pairing these lovely cheeses.


(Dessert: from sister)
My sister ordered a blood orange dessert instead and was unexpectedly large portioned and beautiful! Tarty flavors refresh every taste buds from the powerful dishes. Textures were comprehensive with the use of chips, fruit pulps, sorbet, mousse, orange peels and sauce. Very nice dessert with effort seen.


Wine: Fritz Haag 2012 Brauneberger Juffer Sonneuhr Riesling Auslese (3.5/5)
Craving for a dessert wine to accomplish this lunch with a wonderful finish, daddy finally ordered an extra wine in glass.

German Riesling is always girls’ favorite. This Auslese style was at medium sweetness, soft and light, with a bit of honey and yellow peach in flavor. Quite balanced with the adequate level of acidity, but I would always opt for sweeter ones. Very nice with my sister’s dessert and to some extent could also pair my loved St. Felicien and the blue cheese.

 *Nice Service: Another server proactively provided us one of our preferred dessert wines to taste before ordering.  


Petit Four (4.5/5)
The petit four were also elegantly presented like a mini high tea. The lemon marshmallow was zesty like a real bite of lemon juice. The truffle macaron was very stunning and stood out from the crowd. The truffle aromma blended so well with the smooth black chocolate filling. Chestnut puff was soso but again not too sweet. Finally I had the Japanese Lime tea as a decent and clean ending. 



Service (5/5!)
Their service is absolutely professional; Servers were all very experienced and knowledgeable, very eager to share and interact with us on the food and wine tasting, very attentive to details that we might want (or forget), very smart on explaining the ingredients used, cheese varieties and wine knowledge.


This first Epure experience was truly all rounded at all aspects. I actually found truffle dishes by Epure (the milky foam, chestnut soup and truffle macaron) particularly outstanding. Would definitely come back for sure.  

*Corkage: For 1 bottle of wine purchased in house, they will waive the corkage of 1 BYOB :)


Epure
尖沙咀廣東道17號海洋中心4樓403號舖
Tel: 3185 8338
星期一至日: 12:00-14:30, 18:00-22:00
http:///www.epure.hk 

2014年12月18日 星期四

A Well Seasoned Wine Pairing Dinner

Credits to my company for an annual dinner that there could be such a wonderful eye-opening (and mouth-widening as well :p) experience at the Seasons. Well reported on food news everywhere about Mr. Elzer, no matter in the aspect of his background at Joel Robuchon, his creative inspirations or his previously launched tea set in wooden box. But despite these compliments for this restaurant, very honestly I have to permit that Seasons is really a place where I can get myself indulged with really nice ingredients. If to pinpoint, I would say the dessert is not as pampering as I expect.

 

 
It was around 6:30pm when we arrived the place. The outdoor was nice with wooden decorations and some plants alongside.
Separating the interior restaurant and the outside is the full height glass partition, it was with quite a spacious settings in between tables for the area near the entrance. While passing through the aisle will be another dining area with more chic but close packing seating. And we were arranged to sit at the spacious area under the romantic warm dim lights. 

 

 


Before we order, it was first served with bread baskets. A good assortments of breads which included brioche, chips, small baguette and spiced bread. Breads were nicely hot enough! Both salted and plain butter were available. Best pick would definitely be the spiced bread, which had rosemary, parsley on top and smelled really good.  Both salted and unsalted butter were available.

 
We in table of 8 decided to have Special Tasting Menu by Chef Elzer at 6-course (HK$1,188+10%). Thanks again for the wonderful lists of self-selected wine pairing by my boss that night, with a start of Champagne.

 

1st Wine: Jacques Picard Selection (Brut)
Light yellow in color. Very fine, soft and irrepressibly rising of bubbles from the bottom to make a little cute floating cordon. Very fresh lemon and unripe pineapple in nose. I actually tasted lemon cello and lime at first and then slight limestone at the back. A very agile champagne.

 

 
1.       Appetizer: King Alaska Crab in 2 ways with avocado (8/10)
The first dish brought us an ultimate freshness with the succulent King Alaska Crab. Was recommended to start from the bottom first. The avocado dressing complemented very well with plain shucked crab meat, and the top ginger mayo crab salad was impressive, the hint of ginger actually bumped back some freshness to the umami mouthfeel.
Wine pairing: Pairing clean seafood with Champagne normally could never disappoint anyone.

 

 
2nd Wine: Domaine Tollot-Beaut Chorey-les-Beaune 2009
Use of Pinot Noir at the region Chorey-Les-Beaune. Deep ruby red in color, medium+ nose with blackberries and herb tea. Medium- tannin, medium acidity with meaty and herb tea flavor again, hidden with a very slight red fruit notes at the end.
After breathing for an hour, a distinguishable note of cranberry and cherry was revealed.
*It is actually my very first time to use a Burgundy glass for wine…not a fan of reds but amazed with its wide big bowl and the wonderful fruity aromas flowing along.

 



 

 
2.       Soup: Beetroot soup with yoghurt (4/10)
The soup had beef consommé in base and a considerable amount of beetroot. Attendant recommended to mix the yoghurt together with the soup for more creamier texture. However, unexpectedly the yoghurt simply couldn’t melt (even I smashed it so hard…in a polite way). The soup was too heavily spiced with the black pepper (I guess) and salty as well. It was too just too hard to finish...my throat was really burning. Hopefully some beetroot and veggie dices were there to soothe my palate a bit.

 

 
3rd Wine: Cordero Di Montezemolo Barolo Monfalletto 2009 (Best Pick of the night)
Use of Nebbiolo from Monfalletto state. Garnet in color with noticeable amount of legs. Medium- nose with sweet blends of cranberry and strawberry jelly. In palate, medium- acidity, soft tannin with black fruits. After breathing, the caramel aroma immediately stand out in nose and even more outstanding blackberry flavors. A very elegant wine.

 

 
3.       Seared Hokkaido Scallop with lemon peel herbal butter (6/10)
Hokkaido Scallop was as usual sweet and with chewy texture, very toothsome and with reasonable thickness; herbal butter was always the best garnish for scallop.
The garlic potato foam at the side added a slight saltiness to the scallop, which was nice too. Though tomato and eggplant at the bottom of the scallop seem not to be on the same picture with other ingredients.

 

 
4th Wine:  Chateau Pibran Pauillac 2009
A blend of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon in this wine. Deep ruby color, black fruits in nose and sense of alcohol in nose. Medium+ tannin and acidity, high alcohol, lingering smoky wood, vanilla and chestnut flavor with lively unripe blackberries. A full bodied and complex wine.

 

 
4.       Seared Duck Foie Gras (8/10)
Very thick in size and is seared beautifully with crisp caramelized outer skin, wrapping the smooth, turgid interior. Lovely to enjoy it with the slightly sweet pear puree and fried apricot.
Nice dish.
Wine Pairing: Chateau Pibran was too strong for foie gras. I would always opt for a dessert wine with foie gras.

 

 
5th Wine:  Cullen Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2012
Not of much impression towards as I was already very full that time

 

 
5.       Traditional Pigeon Pie (8.5/10)
Having the previous dishes well going, this main dish gave this dinner experience a very final nice kick which pushed the night to climax. This traditional pigeon pie stuffed with wonderful amounts of pigeon meat and foie gras. Mushrooms and pine nuts which filled up the rest of the space ornamented with just right amount of chewiness to the pie, giving a very satisfying mouthfeel.
Was deeply impressed with the addition of Apricot because its slight sourness balanced the overall strong gravy taste. Lovely sweet gravy sauce on the dish which made the game pie very juicy and perfect.
Found this paired exemptionally well with the Monfalletto and Pauillac wine.

 

 
6.       White Chocolate Mousse with Earl Grey Ice Cream (3/10)
It was actually quite a big slip to have this dessert served after such a fascinating main course. The chocolate mousse prettily failed. Texture went very rough with the grains of undissolved gelatin embedded. Earl Grey ice-cream was so-so in taste with a very week hint of bergamot. But sweetness overall was adequate.  

 

 
In terms of service the whole night, attendants were all smart and professional. If more warm smiles and greetings could happen that would be sweet.
You wont be disappointed about Season's art on food :)

 
Seasons by Olivier Elzer
銅鑼灣恩平道2-38號利園二期三樓308號舖
2505 6228
星期一至日: 12:00-14:30, 18:00-22:30
http://www.seasonsbyolivier.com/
 

2014年7月26日 星期六

Good people drink good beer


主推Craft Beer 及 Handmade Sausage 的Craft Brew &Co
其實先前店未開就已經有留意
啤酒及香腸的配搭 從來就不會輸吧!
近來見到Beecrazy 的團購 才知道原來已經這裡開店
我也急不及待要捉住老友記陪我到訪!

從中環地鐵站經半山天橋 一直上到Shelley street
轉左沿住Staunton Street直行 一路上其實已經聞到煎香腸的香味
直行到尾就到了!

Craft Brew & Co 剛好就在轉角位
兩邊門口全開 滲透著自然光 感覺頗relaxing


Bar Table 牆上超帥的裝崁了十多個水龍頭 每個都運送出不同的Tap Beers
聽說有些Tap Beer 更是香港製造 很不錯呢!
店裡亦有30多種不同的Bottled Beer 選擇 種類十分多元化


十分欣賞店裡對於啤酒質素及市場的堅持
賣手工啤酒 不賣在市場賣得氾濫宣傳得泛濫的商業啤酒
大概在香港暫時沒幾間酒吧能這樣完全擺脫那些大品牌吧



相比Bottled Beer 老友記和我都對Tap Beer 比較有興趣
但乍看名字及酒精含量 難以估計味道
唯有問問店員有沒有推介 形容過我們喜歡帶有Fruity 及Caramel味道的啤酒
話未說完 店員就立刻走開 還以為要急著招呼其他客人
原來他走到水龍頭前 裝上一點給我們試飲 超爽快!


店員的兩款推介我們也十分喜歡 也就要了這兩杯Tap Beer

Fruli (圖左) (alc 4.1%, $48) (4.5/5)
由30%草莓果汁及70%比利時小麥啤酒製成
酒精含量只有4.1% 所以很易入口
充滿草莓的果香 甜甜酸酸的味道減淡了啤酒的苦味
隨後微微的麥香依然讓人著迷
是十分Feminine的啤酒 大愛!

Barrel Project Failed (圖右) (6.7%, $48) (4/5)
這杯啤酒充滿著甜甜焦糖的香氣
一試之下焦糖味道比較微弱 反而是Grassy Hops的藥酒味比較出眾
苦味頗重 是酒體比較豐滿的啤酒
配香腸很不錯!


來到另外一個最讓人期待的香腸選擇環節!
Menu上一系列的有超過十款香腸選擇
不得不提的是其中一款野味腸, 用兔肉, 蛇肉等製成
大概下次壯壯膽再來試試

是次選了Chicken, rocket with Goat Cheese Sausage, 有老友記和我最喜愛的芝士 $78 (5.5/5!)
香腸可以陪熱狗包, 薯仔沙拉, 蒜頭泥或野菜沙拉
由於他所寫的"Freshly Baked Roll" 我忍不住要老友記成全我一次 哈哈

熱狗放在面前 香味滿溢 包裡夾住豐富的洋蔥.青椒 及紅菜頭醬
在這飽滿的熱狗上 當然不少得要放芥末醬
喜歡店裡有六款芥末味道給我們選擇
我就選了平穩的Dijon 及 能很有口感的Wholegrain

這裡的雞肉腸味道很夠很濃郁 大概是因為羊奶芝士的關係
味道混合起來帶點蘇香 質感爽脆 跟炒香過的洋蔥等配料同吃
煞是痛快 每咬一口 雞肉腸的肉汁都流到熱狗裡頭 不會浪費
不過要是沒有麵包一般品嘗香腸 老友記和我都相信一定會更難忘更滋味!

秒殺了一個熱狗 老友記和我對望 明白這一切都不夠喉
唯有下次要一人一個香腸餐 一杯手工啤 To get ourselves chilled again!